One of the more common complaints we hear about RVs these days
is holding tank sensor failure. Although not an earth
shattering problem, it is a real irritant, nonetheless,
especially for those unlucky enough to have a black water
holding tank that's not located directly under the toilet. Not
being able to see directly down into the tank has definite
drawbacks.
The malfunction usually becomes noticeable when waste water
starts backing up into the toilet, sink, or shower, but your
gauges show that the tank is only a quarter full. Yuck! Aside
from cleaning up the disgusting mess, the problem is usually
relatively easy to diagnose and correct.
The problem is either mechanical, electrical, or the result of
a dirty in-tank sending unit. Here's a good, inexpensive way to
find out if a dirty sending unit is indeed the culprit, and
most times fix it if it is.
The next time you put your RV up between trips make sure you've
emptied and thoroughly rinsed the holding tank. Then fill it
with fresh water to nearly full, add the correct amount of an
excellent quality bacteria type liquid holding tank chemical
for the capacity of the tank, and fill it the rest of the way
with water.
Let the RV sit as long as you can without adding anything to
the tank. This will allow the bacteria and the enzymes they
produce to do their job of digesting any toilet paper or
organic debris that may be clinging to the sensors. Finally,
before your next outing, simply empty and thoroughly rinse the
tank once again. If you have allowed sufficient time (a week or
so should do it) for the product to work the sensors should
read correctly. If they don't then the problem is either
mechanical or electrical and you'll want to ask Les to help you
troubleshoot via the RVers Corner bulletin board. If all else
fails you'll have to take the RV to a service center for
additional diagnosis and repair.
We also recommend that this procedure be performed on an annual
basis to keep both your grey and black water holding tanks,
sensors, and dump valves pristine clean. At about a
dollar to treat a 40 gallon holding tank, this is the
least expensive insurance you'll ever buy.
Remember that extremely dirty holding tanks didn't get that way
overnight. Be sure to allow the enzymes enough time to 'eat'
their way through all of the accumulated crud.
Regular use of a high quality liquid enzyme producing bacteria
type holding tank chemical, along with proper holding tank
dumping techniques, should prevent any reoccurrence of fouled
holding tank sensors.
Okay, now you ask, what IS the 'proper' way to dump your
holding tanks?
Here's what we recommend. Empty the holding tanks when near
full by first dumping the black water tank and then, after it's
drained and with the black tank valve still open, the grey
water. When all the sewage has drained, close both valves.
You'll want to rinse out the sewer hose before storing it but,
if using a good liquid bacteria holding tank chemical, will be
pleasantly surprised at how clean it is even before it's
rinsed. As for rinsing out the tanks after draining, well, our
customers tell us they usually don't have to. Again, if using a
quality product, the contents of the tank will be almost
completely liquid and will empty fast and clean.
We also suggest that you add a couple of gallons or so of water
and the appropriate amount of chemical to your empty holding
tanks before storing your RV. The chemical will continue
cleaning your tanks and you'll be ready to go without having to
worry about that minor chore before your next outing.
If you can gain access to your tanks you can determine their
capacity with the following simple formula. All measurements
are in inches.
L x W x H divided by 231 = capacity in
gallons.
Example (my fresh water holding tank): 50" x
21" x 16" = 16,800 divided by 231 = 72.72 gal. capacity (close
approximation).
Dirty sensors can give false reading, not
only showing fuller than they really are but under reporting as
well.
PRODUCT REVIEW
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